Experiencing the Icelandic Horse in a Distinctly Icelandic Landscape
With the sky putting on its finest display, my companions and I set out eastward in early November, leaving the familiar streets of Miðbær behind for the tantalizing warmth of Hveragerði’s steaming hillsides. A stunning, white rainbow—an ethereal phenomenon created by sunlight filtered through fog—graced the vibrant blue expanse above Reykjavík, welcoming us as we descended from the Hellisheiði mountain pass into the valley below.
Although Hveragerði offers a myriad of attractions for day-trippers, our mission was singular: to immerse ourselves in the world of Iceland’s famed horses.
Let’s Not Call Them Ponies
The Icelandic horse is nothing short of splendid. These remarkable creatures have roamed the land since the earliest days of settlement, descended from horses brought to Iceland by the first settlers between 860 and 935 AD, along with ponies from Norse waves coming in from Ireland and Scotland. Recognizing the uniqueness of this breed, Alþingi passed a remarkable piece of legislation in 982 that prohibited the import of any other horses into Iceland.
That law remains firmly in place today, with the import of foreign horse breeds still strictly forbidden. But this regulation is driven by more than just a desire to preserve genetic purity. Horses sent abroad are also barred from returning to Iceland, a measure aimed at safeguarding them from a range of veterinary diseases that the Icelandic breed has, so far, distinctly avoided. Hence, even international riders must utilize the gear provided locally—no personal saddles or tack allowed.
As I share these details with my riding companion, I pepper in tidbits of Icelandic horse lore I’ve gathered over the years within the vibrant tourism landscape of this island nation—yes, someone had to write all those blog posts before the AI boom—as I remind her for the umpteenth time not to call them ponies.
While I might have an edge in random facts about these magnificent creatures, my riding partner possesses a wealth of horsemanship experience—having been a competitive rider since childhood. Though seasoned, she was excited to explore the unique gaits of Icelandic horses. Most horses are adept at three basic gaits: walk, trot, and canter. However, the Icelandic horse boasts the extraordinary tölt, and some of the finest specimens can even break into a flying pace.
Tölt, a smooth four-beat lateral gait, promises a luxurious riding experience. As we pull into the Eldhestar parking lot, anticipation hangs in the air.
Tea and the Crew
Warmly welcomed by Tea—a vibrant, young Swedish woman on a gap year before pursuing law— we donned cozy coveralls, helmets, and made our way to the paddock to meet our steeds for the afternoon.
I was assigned to Hljómar, a gentle giant, and I hoped he would be patient with this first-time rider. Yes, I’ve written extensively about Icelandic horses, stroked their manes on the roadside, and sent my child to horse camp all summer long, but until now, I had yet to mount one. My companions were paired with Rauðhetta and Skessa.
After a few laps around the paddock to find our footing and a brisk lesson in holding the reins while gently squeezing our legs to move forward, we set off up the mountainside behind the town.
The Horses and Hotsprings tour promised exactly what its name suggested: horses and, as you might guess, hotsprings. Hveragerði is a geothermal wonderland; steam billows from various points across the landscape, and greenhouses thrive in the abundant warmth. As we navigated the trail leading into the geothermal zone, we rode past bubbling mud pits and steaming fumaroles, while Tea shared insights into the local geothermal activity, noting a significant uptick following the earthquakes in 2008.
The Joy of Tölt
While Hljómar might not have the legendary prowess of Sleipnir, Tea even equipped me with a gentle stick to encourage him when he seemed less than enthusiastic about keeping pace. I opted for encouragement instead, hoping to foster a connection. When we finally managed to execute the tölt, however, it was pure magic—suddenly, the bouncy trot transformed into a floating sensation as if this colossal animal was barely touching the ground.
Gliding through a quaint forest edging the geothermal zone felt like stepping into a dream. My more experienced companion soon received permission to break away from the group and put her skills to good use; her joy was palpable.
As the white rainbow faded, the sun began its descent toward the horizon. We trotted back to the paddock, dismounted onto the mud-strewn ground, removed the saddles, and watched our faithful steeds meander off into a nearby field. For us, it was time to return over the mountain pass to Reykjavík, leaving the enchanting horses and hotsprings behind.
Eldhestar is located in Hveragerði, just 47 km from Reykjavík. To book your riding tour, visit Eldhestar.is.
