Laugarás Lagoon Launches Along the Golden Circle

Iceland is known for its enchanting landscape, punctuated by an array of spa-like geothermal lagoons that beckon travelers from near and far. Recently, a noteworthy addition emerged along the southern coast: Laugarás Lagoon. Nestled beside the Hvítá River in Laugarás—an area rich in geothermal activity and steeped in history near the legendary Skálholt—this serene lagoon is conveniently located less than an hour and a half from Reykjavík, right on the popular Golden Circle route.

All You Need, Plus a Little Extra

There’s an undeniable thrill in visiting a brand-new lagoon, where towels are still luxuriously soft, the changing rooms are sparkling clean, and the entry fee won’t strain your budget. First impressions matter, and Laugarás Lagoon certainly makes a favorable one.

I arrived at the lagoon around 11:00 AM, just ahead of the morning’s first wave of visitors. A warmly illuminated corner by the reception caught my eye—a display of elegant ceramics and the lagoon’s signature shower products that felt more like an art installation than a mere spa.

but the true highlight of Laugarás Lagoon lies ahead: this is merely the upper level.

The changing rooms are bright and inviting, characterized by light wood and soft textures—“a bit unusual for a wet area,” as Managing Director Bryndís Björnsdóttir later shared with me. The design cleverly cultivates a sense of privacy, regardless of the crowd. One standout feature that caught my attention was the music: a playlist curated by designer Anthony Bacigalupo, perfectly setting the serene tone for a calm morning. While I questioned how it would fare during the summer rush, the atmospheric tunes made getting ready for a soak a genuinely luxurious experience.

The shower facilities are immaculate, boasting an open communal area alongside private pods equipped with rain showers and locally sourced hygiene products. “We wanted to bring you to nature,” Bryndís explained, highlighting how the scents evoke the earthy yet floral aromas of summer grass.

Stepping out from the changing room into the welcoming warmth of the lagoon, I couldn’t help but feel a wave of relaxation wash over me—what a splendid way to kick off a Friday!

The first stop is an infinity pool that grants breathtaking views of the Hvítá River valley and a majestic suspension bridge beyond. I was told that when night falls, the bridge transforms into a dazzling spectacle of lights, often accompanied by the elusive northern lights—an occurrence that has graced visitors several times since Laugarás opened its doors. And yes, there’s indeed a swim-up bar, but the real intrigue lies lower down: there’s a second level, making this a two-story lagoon. Accessing it requires either navigating a set of stairs or taking a plunge through a cascading waterfall. “It’s a bit akin to a river path,” Bryndís said, “where you emerge at the top and then gradually make your way down.”

Admittedly, I hesitated as I approached the waterfall for the first time. Would the water be icy? Would it be uncomfortable? Surprisingly, it was neither; as long as I shielded my drink with a hand and closed my eyes, I felt perfectly safe.

The lower deck offers ample space, featuring another bar, a “secluded grotto” for quiet reflection set behind what appear to be genuine basalt rocks, a 40°C forest tub, a refreshing plunge pool (which I decided to skip for now), a dry sauna with panoramic views, and a steam room. The steam room may have been my favorite spot; slightly tucked away from the main area, it felt like a hidden gem, with an industrial yet sophisticated design that evoked the vibe of a ship.

My time at the lagoon was spent uncovering its many delights, moving between levels and sipping on a refreshing non-alcoholic cocktail crafted from local rhubarb and mint. Yet, excitingly, more culinary adventures awaited!

Hyper-Seasonal, Hyper-Local

My curiosity about the new lagoon was matched by my eagerness to sample its on-site restaurant, Ylja.

When Gísli Matthías Auðunsson—better known as Gísli Matt—announced the closure of his acclaimed fine-dining restaurant, Slippurinn, in Vestmannaeyjar, food enthusiasts across Iceland held their breath. Shortly afterward, the announcement came: he would be taking over the restaurant at Laugarás Lagoon, introducing his culinary creativity to this scenic stretch of the Golden Circle.

Months prior to Ylja’s opening, I was captivated by its five-course menu titled “Around Laugarás,” which celebrates the region’s farmers and the natural bounty around. While other menus feature meat and fish, this one is wholly vegetarian and can easily be adjusted for vegans. In a country where plant-based meals are increasingly accessible, this five-course affair stands out—not merely for its lack of meat but for the intricate experience it offers. As a vegetarian, this menu is a true triumph worth recognizing.

“Our goal is to let the flavors reflect the locale,” Gísli remarked. “It’s not too far removed from what we’ve done on the island; it’s simply a new array of ingredients, maintaining the same philosophy—focusing on what’s available around us.”

We began with a delightful salted cucumber adorned with fennel, rye crumble, herb vinaigrette, and whey—a by-product of skyr that resembles lemon in acidity once reduced. “Much of it flows down our drains, contributing to ocean acidification, so reintegrating it into the food cycle is actively beneficial,” Gísli explained. Simultaneously, a “humble tomato carpaccio” layered atop fresh cheese was presented, unexpectedly becoming my favorite dish of the day. Its simplicity belied the explosion of flavor—a result of the tomatoes being slightly fermented.

Earlier this year, I learned via Instagram that the talented chef Lucas Keller, formerly of The Coocoo’s Nest, was teaming up with Gísli in Vestmannaeyjar. When Gísli presented a plate of sourdough bread, it all fell into place: “He helped me with the bread. This is his acclaimed sourdough, served with a touch of caramelized butter, accompanied by grilled peppers from a nearby farm,” Gísli noted.

Three words: To die for. I’ll be returning to Laugarás solely for this bread.

My dining companion, Art Bicnick, was equally enthralled, enjoying the omnivore menu that included Arctic char, slow-cooked cod, and lamb sirloin. His repeated declarations of, “This is the best meal of my life!” could have turned into a drinking game.

To be candid, I’ve spent my life evading beets, their curious texture rarely appealing to me. Yet Gísli’s presentation of several varieties of beets—yellow among them—arranged atop smoked skyr with pickled bilberries, spiced nuts, and tarragon changed my perspective. I savored each bite, each bursting with a distinctive flavor.

For the main course, I was treated to a medley of cauliflowers served over barley porridge infused with mushroom and seaweed broth, finished with grilled oyster mushrooms. Unconventional yet surprisingly delightful, it harmoniously melded freshness and umami.

I concluded my meal with a sumptuous chocolate mousse made from 70 percent cocoa and olive oil—vegan, as Gísli reminded me—topped with cacao nibs and blackcurrants that balanced the rich bitterness, with a delightful Sicilian twist: arctic thyme granita.

When Gísli mentioned that the menu would be seasonal, I initially assumed he meant the standard summer-winter rotation—but Ylja’s approach is far more nuanced. “We aim to maintain a small menu but change it frequently,” he explained. “For instance, the last of the cauliflowers you enjoyed will no longer be available next week.” He has already begun dreaming up new dishes, experimenting with locally grown Lion’s Mane mushrooms and rutabaga, an Icelandic staple, “We want to grill it and give it some character,” he expressed.

Importantly, Ylja strives to cater to all palates—not just fine dining enthusiasts—offering a daytime menu with approachable options like soup and a main of your choice, along with grab-and-go snacks for families and picky eaters alike.

“The local produce is remarkable,” Gísli remarked. “Building relationships with farmers allows us to determine what’s best at any given time.”

True to its name—Ylja, meaning “warmth” in Icelandic—this dining experience beautifully mirrored my time at Laugarás Lagoon thus far—from the steamy sauna walls to the elevated comfort food I savored. Without a doubt, I will return.

Experience provided by Laugarás Lagoon. To book your lagoon tickets or reserve a table at the restaurant, visit: laugaraslagoon.is