I recently dined at Kol Restaurant, a celebrated establishment nestled in downtown Reykjavik, just a brisk two-minute walk from the city’s most iconic landmark, Hallgrimskirkja church. Accompanied by friends, I was eager to revisit this ten-year-old gem in a city that constantly attracts new culinary adventures. Kol has clearly mastered the art of reliability, a crucial element in the competitive Reykjavik restaurant scene.
Having been to Kol before, I looked forward to diving into their seasonal menu and indulging in a selection of cocktails.
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An Elegant Mood for Food
Step inside Kol, and you’re greeted by an ambiance that exudes sophistication, framed by a modern Scandinavian aesthetic. The initial appeal lies in the softly lit space, accented by stunning hanging lamps crafted by renowned British designer Tom Dixon, and illuminated wooden panels that give the restaurant a warm glow.
While the dim light creates a romantic atmosphere—ideal for intimate conversations—it can cast shadows on dining photography. Fortunately, we managed to snag a table by the window, soaking in both the light and the luscious dishes that followed.
The decor features a harmonious blend of concrete, wood, and leather, creating a stylish backdrop reflective of the restaurant’s commitment to consistency in both ambiance and cuisine.
As we settled in, the efficient bartender quickly whipped up cocktails, though I could barely capture a shot without him zipping out of frame. We indulged in the cocktail menu, a thoughtfully curated selection of twenty drinks divided into four accessible categories: Accessible, Professional, Dessert, and Seasonal—a welcome approach that simplifies choices without feeling overwhelming.
I opted for the “Laugh and Grow Fat,” a delectable take on an Old Fashioned. This cocktail combined bacon-washed bourbon, date syrup, and chocolate bitters, garnished with a plump dried date. It indeed induced laughter, and perhaps also a bulge in my waistline!
At the table, others ventured into “Old Mexican Sour,” Kol’s innovative rendition of a Whiskey Sour, and the refreshing “Penicillin,” which wielded a robust Scotch whiskey base with hints of lemon and ginger, complemented by honey’s sweetness.
Crispy, Crackly & Crumbly
After enjoying our cocktails accompanied by some merry banter, it was time to place our orders. Each of us chose a different menu: I ventured with the seasonal offerings for October, two friends opted for the Icelandic set menu, while one embraced the vegan selection. A French set menu awaits my future explorations.
My initial course featured birch-smoked salmon—a staple in Icelandic cuisine. Kol’s rendition was refreshingly sweet and crispy, adorned with almond praline, cranberry purée, cashew nuts, and accompanied by delectable Parmesan crisps. The balance of sweet and smoky flavors surprised me, with the crunch elevating this classic dish.
Next came the tiger prawn taco, its unique shell reminiscent of Icelandic laufabrauð rather than conventional corn tacos. Stuffed with pickled chili, lime aioli, and a vibrant cashew purée, it was fried to perfection, exuding a delightful crackle with each bite.
For my friends sampling the Icelandic menu, the saffron langoustine soup emerged in a beautiful presentation. The server poured the hot, lightly cocoa-flavored broth into a bowl crafted with basil cream cheese, pickled mustard seeds, croutons, and shallots—a visual delight that elevated the dining experience.
Before transitioning to the main course, I must mention the well-paired wines we savored with our dishes. While I can’t delve into the intricacies of tannins and tones, I can say that each glass complemented our dinners quite well, enhancing the rich tapestry of flavors.
A Satisfying End to the Evening
As the evening progressed, the main attraction took center stage: the miso beef tenderloin. I was somewhat surprised not to be asked how I preferred my steak, but the chef seemed to intuit my taste for rare. The tenderloin was artistically plated with pickled pearl onions and a Madagascar pepper sauce, while a rich hazelnut and celeriac crumble added a satisfying crunch, alongside crispy kataifi pastry, continuing the theme of texture exploration.
Accompanying this mouthwatering steak was creamy wild mushroom risotto, elegantly garnished with Parmesan cheese and sunchokes. The risotto boasted its own delightful texture profile with crispy oyster mushrooms, allowing every bite to bring forth a delightful mix.
Our cocktail explorations continued as well. I delighted in a “Donkey” from the Accessible menu, while another friend opted for the ever-popular espresso martini. The memorable highlight was the “Papaya on Fire,” a fiery blend of rum, cinnamon, pepper, and cocoa—the dramatic presentation fit for an encore.
Dessert arrived in the form of a delectable basil-pistachio tiramisu served in a martini glass, adorned with a charming violet pansy. The balance of sweetness struck a perfect chord after a multi-course meal, with brownie bites, toffee gelato, and a delightful pistachio crumble that left us in awe.
The lone vegan in our group savored a golden banana split, decadently topped with coconut ice cream and a medley of berries. It was a towering dessert that offered large bursts of flavor and a harmonious balance of sweetness.
By the end of the night, we were all smiles, relishing both the delightful company and the culinary journey we had embarked on. Our laughter echoed through the restaurant as the warmth of the autumn night enveloped Reykjavik, capturing the joy of our experience.
Remarkable service throughout the evening made our experience even more enjoyable; the staff was attentive yet unobtrusive, ensuring our needs were met with a friendly demeanor.
As we departed around 10 p.m., the vibrant atmosphere of Kol continued to draw in diners, embodying the spirit of Reykjavik on a crisp autumn night—a testament to the restaurant’s lasting appeal.
Conclusion: Kol offers an elegant dining experience, perfect for a romantic evening or a gathering with friends. The exquisite cuisine impressively blends unexpected sweet notes with an emphasis on texture, turning every course into a delightful adventure for the senses.
