A Rookie’s Guide to Driving Around Iceland
The introduction of the automobile transformed Iceland from a remote wilderness into a land of asphalt and adventure. With no trains, limited buses, and a lack of cycling infrastructure, a car becomes essential for anyone wishing to truly explore this breathtaking country.
I’ve been visiting Iceland for over 13 years, but my ability to delve deeply into its heart was hampered by my lack of a driver’s license. I’ve hitchhiked, taken buses, explored on foot, even flown over its awe-inspiring landscapes. This summer, however, I finally had my chance for adventure behind the wheel.
While my journey was exhilarating, I quickly learned that driving in Iceland presents its own unique challenges. It can offer moments of beauty, danger, frustration, and an undeniable number of gas station hot dogs. Here’s a collection of tips to make the most of your travels on this magnificent island.
Embrace the Journey
In Iceland, the path you take is often more significant than the destination itself. At some point during your road trip, you may find that the breathtaking waterfalls and dramatic volcanoes all begin to blend together. It’s the route that weaves these landmarks into a cohesive narrative—so don’t rush it.
If you find yourself in Laugarbakki in the northwest, taking a bathroom break while dreaming of Akureyri’s infamous hot dogs, resist the urge to sprint straight to your hot dog haven via Google Maps. Sure, the fastest route might tempt you, but opt for the longer paths—those marked as ’26 minutes slower’ or even ‘two days slower.’
These alternative routes will guide you through breathtaking fjords, meandering mountain passes, and charmingly remote settlements, offering experiences that are simply sublime. You might even find yourself driving on gravel instead of tarmac. It’s in these moments, surrounded by nature’s unfiltered beauty, that you may begin to feel a sense of rejuvenation, as though you could keep driving forever.
Respect the Rules of the Road
While the thrill of exploring Iceland by car is undeniable, it’s crucial to be aware of the speed limits, which are stricter than in many neighboring countries. In populated areas, the maximum speed generally hovers around 30-50 km/h (31 mph), while you’ll be limited to 80 km/h (50 mph) on gravel roads and 90 km/h (56 mph) on paved ones. If you’re accustomed to cruising at 70 mph or more, this may feel akin to treacle.
The reason for these limitations is simple: safety. Traffic accidents are a significant concern, particularly for tourists. Penalties for speeding can hit hard in Iceland; for instance, driving 26 km/h over the limit in a 30-35 km zone can result in a fine of up to 23,544 ISK. And exceeding the limit by 41 km/h in an 80-90 km zone? That can lead to a staggering 83,310 ISK fine.
Moreover, Iceland takes drinking and driving exceptionally seriously. While some countries may allow for a beer or two with lunch, the limit in Iceland is a mere 0.049 percent BAC—quite a difference from the UK’s 0.8 percent. Getting pulled over the morning after a night out can still result in penalties that include hefty fines and possibly even imprisonment.
It’s also worth noting that rural officers often have plenty of time on their hands, leading to unexpected speed traps and breathalyzer checkpoints—so best to keep your speed in check and your driving sober.
Stay Alert
If you navigate the strict limits and avoid dangerous penalties, there’s still one major threat to keep in mind: the risk of accident. While traffic jams are rare outside urban centers, Iceland’s rural roads present unique dangers. Grazing sheep can suddenly leap into your path. When you see warning signs, take heed.
Moreover, Icelandic roads can be treacherous for various reasons—single-lane stretches, sudden flooding, landslides, and the classic ‘where did the road go?’ moment. Even your bladder may become an issue on longer stretches without restrooms!
The solution? Take it easy and be prepared for anything. Keep your headlights on and tune in to RÚV radio, where you might hear a delightful mix featuring everything from Dolly Parton to Basement Jaxx. Calm your nerves, hold your bladder, and remember: enjoy the incredible journey that Iceland has to offer.
