Answering the Call of the Open Road

Chasing Spring Through the Winding Roads of Hvalfjörður

Ah, that first sun-soaked day after an endless stretch of dreary grey. When the sky transforms into a brilliant, cloudless blue, the sun breaks free, and suddenly, the world feels a touch lighter. You inhale deeply, and for the first time in ages, everything seems possible. Spring has arrived—or, if you’re in Iceland, at least it’s making its long-awaited approach.

When a day like this falls on a weekend in February, there’s no reason to linger indoors. It insists upon a road trip—the first of the year.

After a brief search for my sunglasses—had it really been six months since I’d last worn them?—I finally slide them on, leap into my car, feeling invigorated and ready to take on the day. But first, I must quell the growling in my stomach.

“When a day like this lands in the middle of February — and on a weekend, no less — there’s no excuse for staying inside.”

A quick pit stop at Brauð & Co.’s drive-through—a true gem in Iceland’s culinary landscape. Unfortunately, having arrived after noon means the best picks have already vanished. I pause to consider a chili cheese knot, but ultimately settle for a muesli caramel bun, and it certainly does not disappoint. With my treat in hand and “Painted Image” by Oyama blasting through the speakers, I set off towards Route 1, heading for Hvalfjörður.

Winding Roads

No matter how many times I traverse these roads, the stunning views of Hvalfjörður still take my breath away. Patches of snow cling to the mountainsides, while hints of green grass begin to reemerge after months of frost. It’s as if the landscape, much like us after a long winter, is yearning for a dose of sunlight.

Every few hundred meters, the scenery feels as though it could be lifted straight from a masterful painting. How fortunate we are to have such beauty so close to the capital! Today’s agenda is refreshingly simple: let the road guide me, concluding with a soothing soak at Hvammsvík.

But my initial excitement wanes as we arrive at Þórufoss and I step outside. It’s a classic case of window weather—lovely to admire from inside, but harsh once you venture out. I quickly learn this lesson the hard way: on my first attempt to open the car door, the brisk wind slams it shut. After a firmer push and a leap into the cold, I hastily don my hat and gloves, having been misled by the sunshine and wearing summer gloves (yes, those exist—no judgment, please).

The waterfall is undeniably beautiful, yet in a land brimming with picturesque sights, it doesn’t compel me to hike down for a closer look. A quick photo suffices, and I retreat to the warmth of the car.

At the site, a group of tourists stands steadfast, seemingly engaged in a competition for the perfect waterfall shot. Despite the wind threatening their hats and shaking their parked car, they persist, capturing every angle of Þórufoss.

With some time to spare, I take a scenic detour along the roads from Kjósarhreppur, winding past Litlu-Tunga to Hvalfjarðarvegur. The first spring birds dance above the fjord, while the infamous whaling station, Iceland’s last, looms in the distance, a stark contrast against the otherwise serene landscape.

A Secluded Escape

About 40 minutes later, my car bumps along the gravel road leading to Hvammsvík Hot Springs, nestled at the foot of the fjord. While Iceland is home to countless hot springs catering to diverse tastes and budgets, few can rival this one’s seclusion and breathtaking views.

“It’s a classic case of window weather — beautiful to admire from inside, but absolutely brutal the moment you step out.”

Due to its smaller size, booking in advance is advisable. Pricing starts at 4,900 ISK, varying by day and time, though this only includes access to the semi-outdoor Natural Changing Rooms. Opting for the Classic experience seemed wise, especially as my mobile provider, Nova, offers a 2-for-1 promo code. Instead of paying 19,800 ISK, I end up spending just 9,900 ISK for both of us.

As I check in, the attendant mentions a large group is about to leave, cautioning that the changing room may get crowded—and crowded it becomes. I maneuver through the throng to find a locker and endure a line for the shower. Yet when I finally sink into the Lounge Pool, I feel a wave of relaxation wash over me.

For what Hvammsvík offers, the price may actually be justified: eight hot pools of varying sizes and temperatures, including a 35°C tidal pool that completely disappears at high tide. It also features the usual amenities of Icelandic spa culture—hair and shower products, a swim-up bar, and a steam room.

Surprisingly, the spa’s design, though clearly man-made, harmonizes beautifully with the fjord’s natural surroundings, enhancing rather than overshadowing the view. This picturesque setting consistently earns Hvammsvík high marks in our sister magazine Best Of Reykjavík’s annual spa evaluations.

The Sun Is Back

One unmistakable sign of winter’s decline is the lengthening days. There’s a delight in basking in daylight past 4 PM; each day functions like a slow recovery from a dreadful hangover. To those who think I’m losing my sanity—you’ve likely never endured a full Icelandic winter.

While we haven’t yet hit the peak tourist season, the pools already resonate with a medley of accents. Some visitors seem to be here for the sole purpose of sharing their experience online; one couple clings to a prime location, posting endless Instagram story updates that could exhaust their followers. This amusing spectacle inspires me to brush up on a few choice Spanish curse words.

As the skyline gradually shifts, the icy wind bites at my back as I hop from rock to rock along the path between pools, feeling as if I’m leaping across hot stones. When I finally immerse myself in the inviting 37°C pool, a woman screams as she plunges into the cold water beside me. To each their own, I suppose—but the promise of spring’s arrival is more than enough to awaken my senses.