Despite Iceland’s expansive wilderness, truly finding solitude is proving increasingly difficult, especially during the bustling summer tourist season. People flock to this enchanting land to reconnect with nature through its breathtaking landscapes, yet all too often, one finds the serenity marred by the sounds of selfie sticks echoing among the cliffs.
For those wishing to escape the throngs, it becomes essential to veer off the well-trodden path. Steering clear of paved roads can lead to rewarding adventures; leave the ring road behind, pack some snacks, and follow your instincts. You may stumble upon enchanting destinations, including Ásbyrgi.
A Horseshoe-Shaped Haven
Nestled along Route 86, Ásbyrgi is a striking forested canyon, celebrated as one of North Iceland’s premier camping spots. This horseshoe-shaped gem is steeped in ancient Norse mythology, said to be carved by the mighty hoof of Thor’s horse. It also holds a prominent place in Icelandic culture, having been the backdrop for an unforgettable Sigur Rós performance, immortalized in their acclaimed film, At Home. But perhaps its most delightful characteristic is its abundance of trees—something that contrasts sharply with much of Iceland’s barren landscapes.
Interestingly, Ásbyrgi remains off the radar for many tour groups. Perched at the northern edge of Vatnajökull National Park and less than an hour’s drive from Lake Mývatn, it’s accessible via the lesser-traveled Route 86. This relative obscurity often makes it a sanctuary for Icelanders, who seek refuge here for tranquil getaways in summer. At the campsite, you’re more likely to encounter local teens from Akureyri than wandering tourists dressed in their Midwest hiking gear—diverting from the standard sightseeing experience to embrace the rustic joys of woodland camping.
“More often than not, the sublime vistas Iceland has to offer unfortunately come with a few too many selfie sticks.”
This isn’t to suggest that Ásbyrgi lacks in grandeur. The canyon unfolds dramatically, adorned with peculiar rock formations and soaring cliffs that tower a striking 100 meters. The site itself is bordered by a vast forested basin, offering off-the-beaten-path hiking trails that meander through lush vegetation, inviting exploration around the valley’s perimeter.
Experiencing such verdant surroundings in this part of Iceland is nothing short of surreal. Surrounding areas are predominantly characterized by barren volcanic plains and desolate valleys, yet here in Ásbyrgi, you catch a glimpse of what the landscape once was—before deforestation reshaped its character. Admittedly, like many Icelandic woodlands, these trees aren’t the tallest and grow in close quarters—perhaps remnants of past reforestation efforts. Still, the diversity of flora and fauna is astounding. Eagles soar above while their chicks nestle in the treetops, showcasing a vibrant ecosystem that feels more at home in mainland Europe, yet is uniquely framed by Iceland’s glacial geography.
Influencer Challenges and a Unique Gas Station
Of course, with such beauty comes its complications. If you’re akin to me, remember to bring bug repellent. Should you decide to hike the trails that circle the canyon, you’ll likely encounter swarms of midges, particularly as evening approaches—and they’re relentless. But don’t dismay; this is a good sign, indicating that you’re closing in on water, the crown jewel of this valley: Botnstjörn Lake.
Though modest in size, this picturesque lake compensates with stunning scenery. Nestled at the canyon’s heart and framed by towering cliffs, it is fed by a delicate waterfall cascading from above. The crystalline waters reflect the dramatic rock formations and sky overhead, where Eider ducks and fish thrive. You’ll find it easy to lose track of time on the observation deck, soaking in the tranquility—though my moment of serenity was briefly disrupted by a yoga influencer and her devoted Instagram boyfriend setting up for an elaborate photoshoot. Even so, this remains one of the most understated and peaceful locations I’ve had the pleasure of visiting in Iceland.
From the lake, options abound for your next move—should you choose to continue exploring, the hiking trails extend further along the canyon’s edge. If it’s time to return to camp, a nearby botanic trail offers shortcuts, showcasing local flora and plants endemic to Ásbyrgi. Yet, resist the temptation to skip the path that ascends the cliff face. Follow the signs featuring an illustration of a hiker; they’ll lead you to breathtaking vantage points and a slightly rickety staircase crafted from rock.
This ascent may not reach the cliff’s summit, but it brings you high enough for sweeping views of the canyon below, including the iconic Eyjan rock formation, the lush treetops, and distant volcanoes. It’s the perfect spot to pause with a sandwich, reflecting on a day spent amidst midges, water, and rich vegetation.
Whether you choose to depart the valley post-hike or stay overnight under the stars, a hidden gem awaits as you exit: the Verslunin gas station. This family-run establishment doubles as a grocery store, café, and souvenir shop, offering an astonishing variety of goods—from secondhand Icelandic CDs to handcrafted stuffed toys. It’s one of the few places where you might find Malt og Appelsín outside the holiday season. Be sure to snag one alongside a cheeseburger and a 1,000 ISK Hermigervill CD before you set off on your journey.
