Discover Húsavík: Your Holiday Weekend Getaway Guide

As Verslunarmannahelgi, also known as Merchant’s Weekend—an eagerly awaited holiday marking the last public holiday before Christmas—approached in early August, I, like many Icelanders, turned my gaze to the skies and made a hasty exit from the capital. While Reykjavík grappled with relentless rain, I embarked on a six-hour drive filled with good music and a vivid double rainbow that accompanied me from Blönduós to Húsavík.

This weekend is affectionately regarded as the prime camping opportunity of the year, so any other option was off the table. I gathered my tent, an inflatable mat—an absolute must-have that ranks among my top three life enhancers—and a generous stash of pillows from home. If space allows, pillows can dramatically elevate not only sleep quality but also the overall atmosphere of your tent.

So, where to pitch my tent? Húsavík has an official campground, but a quick glance told me that it was not for me. Nestled beside the road, the campground felt cramped, with tents and trailers piled together in such a way that it was hard to decipher where the parking lot ended and the campsite began. Fortunately, just a twenty-minute drive past Húsavík lies one of Iceland’s most picturesque campsites. Google “Camping 66.12 NORTH” and save it for your next adventure—it’s spacious enough to accommodate everyone, despite my desire to keep it under wraps.

All About That Horizon

Imagine this: the weather is a splendid 18°C (And to anyone reading from a warmer locale—please, spare us your eye rolls. Let us revel in our fleeting summer bliss!). You’re setting up your tent with a backdrop of calm, expansive ocean, only to spot two intriguing islands emerging on the horizon. Soon enough, you’ll be sizzling veggie burgers on your camping stove while kids run about, delighting in a giant bird-shaped kite.

“After years of circumnavigating Iceland, I confess: I had never set foot in Húsavík until this trip.”

This campsite has an interesting rule: tents and trailers must be a minimum of four meters apart. It’s a decent distance that allows for privacy while still affording opportunities for some light-hearted people-watching. Nearby, a group of girls struggles with tent-pitching, revealing their inexperience through their rental white Dacia Duster. A few senior citizens settle in for a game of cards, while a couple feeds their surprisingly calm camping cat—who seemed as if it had spent the summer adventuring. Meanwhile, a friend snaps a photo of another camper perched on a hay bale, as they dot the site like oversized marshmallows. Even Reykjavík’s former mayor, Dagur B. Eggertsson, joins fellow campers, all vying for the best seat to witness the breathtaking sunset spilling from behind the clouds.

As night approaches and the wind begins to rattle my tent, it hardly matters; the day’s beauty is still fresh in my mind, and I savor the fleeting warmth of summer.

While I tend to romanticize the scenery and meticulously plan my meals during trips, this campsite excels in the practical department as well. It boasts a fully equipped kitchen replete with pots, a toaster, and a microwave, complemented by gender-segregated bathrooms and plenty of charging stations for devices. For a small fee, there’s even laundry service available on-site. Nightly rates are surprisingly accessible, too: just 2,000 ISK for the first night and 1,000 ISK for any additional nights.

A shout-out is due for Bjarni, the campsite manager who seems to be ever-present while greeting arrivals and lending a guiding hand. When I mentioned my desire for an extra night during my first morning, he smiled and quipped, “Just settle up when you return; I wouldn’t want to charge you twice!”

Northern Pints

As my exploration of Húsavík deepens, I realize a revelation: despite years traversing Iceland, I had never before visited this charming town. Perhaps it’s the town’s somewhat off-the-beaten-path location along the Ring Road or its newfound fame thanks to the Netflix film Eurovision Song Contest: The Story of Fire Saga, which inspired various thematic establishments, including a trivia-filled exhibition and a fun Jaja Ding Dong bar. Interestingly, the absence of a good ice cream shop has kept Húsavík off my radar; however, its quaint charm is undeniable.

Home to under 3,000 residents, Húsavík is a delightful collection of colorful homes overlooking Skjálfandi Bay. Besides its Eurovision attractions, notable landmarks include the century-old Húsavíkurkirkja, the local brewery and taproom, Húsavík Öl, and the renowned GeoSea baths.

Upon entering the taproom, I’m greeted by a lively terrace filled with locals enjoying their pints; an affable grandmother seems to be enjoying her weekend getaway as she occupies a prime spot on the patio each time I pass by. Inside, the space may be small, yet it exudes a surprisingly urban vibe, considering that beyond lies just the ocean, uninhabited islands, and the Arctic Circle. I opt for a fruity yet hoppy New England IPA, while my companion selects a non-alcoholic brew—remarkably, they offer an impressive variety of seven choices for non-drinkers.

The Horizon Slips into the Water

After confirming the opening hours for GeoSea, I discover they stay open until midnight during summer (through August 31), which perfectly aligns with my sunset plans. We arrive around 10 PM to find the baths bustling with visitors who had the same idea. For over an hour, I jockey for space among an American family who seems intent on making friends with every child present.

“How do you say ‘nice to meet you’ in Icelandic?” asks the mom, while her child patiently guides her through the pronunciation. Her attempt comes out as a comical “Blah-blah-florp!”—a moment I still chuckle about as I recount this adventure.

Despite the peak tourist chaos, GeoSea’s allure remains intact. The infinity pool merges seamlessly with the cliffside, creating the illusion that the water and horizon meld into one. The heated seawater varyingly warms throughout the pool, creating comfortable seating areas, plus a bar—albeit necessitating a little trek out of the water to grab a drink. Its sole other feature is a steam room, yet that is more than sufficient. This venue is all about the breathtaking view. As I soak in the warm water, mesmerized by the sun sinking into the bay, I can’t help but daydream about returning in the heart of winter, when few would dare to brave the chill.

Hot Cocoa and Whale Tails

However, Húsavík isn’t solely focused on relaxation; it proudly claims the title of Iceland’s whale-watching capital. The multitude of whale-watching tours readily available is hard to ignore. Bright signs beckon you to join an adventure, with enticing brochures offering discounts on local museums and restaurants for those who book a tour. Having seen whales on two prior occasions—in Greenland and Hafnarfjörður—these breathtaking encounters left me humbled, yet I had never considered joining an organized tour. A mix of curiosity and FOMO drew me in this time—perhaps due to the lack of other nearby activities.

So, on the Monday of the long weekend, before heading back to Reykjavík, I booked the “Húsavík Original Whale Watching” tour with North Sailing. They offer numerous options, from silent tours on electric boats to combined puffin and whale excursions, and even sailing trips to Greenland. I selected a three-hour tour departing at 9 AM, lured not just by the adventure, but also by the promise of hot cocoa and cinnamon rolls waiting at the end.

Once aboard the traditional oak vessel, Sæborg, I’m promptly handed a waterproof suit by our guides—a welcome addition for someone like me who tends to feel the chill, even on sunny days. Given the popularity of these tours throughout summer, our boat quickly fills with fellow enthusiasts. As we set sail, I can’t help but notice several similar vessels, all heavy with passengers, cameras ready at the ready.

The guide humorously instructs us to visualize the boat as a clock face; whenever a whale is spotted, he’ll announce “one o’clock” or “six o’clock.” Apparently, this approach simplifies directing a bunch of sightseers familiar with neither the local geography nor compass directions. “Or, just peek where everyone else is looking,” he adds with a weary grin.

Lucky me! I settled into a prime spot at the front of the ship, just where “one o’clock” frequently rang out during our voyage. First, we spotted puffins busily gathering fish, their beaks stuffed. Moments later, a dolphin made its appearance, followed by an entire pod leaping joyfully from the water. They playfully chased after the boat, circling it with a display of acrobatics.

After some time, the excitement dwindled. We shadowed another vessel that had reportedly sighted a whale, patiently waiting for it to resurface. During this lull, the guide regaled us with stories about the local wildlife, including the summer sightings of immense blue whales—creatures that dwarf everything else in the ocean. He also displayed some baleen plates from these whales, though I wasn’t too keen on the idea. I prefer my food without such dramatic filtration methods.

“A humpback is diving now, and they can stay submerged for about 40 minutes. Unfortunately, we can’t wait that long,” the guide mentioned as we redirected our course, searching for our next sighting.

We caught fleeting glimpses of a humpback’s tail, but it hardly counted as a success. Meanwhile, the dolphins danced around, their tiny fins breaking the surface in a manner that might confuse the untrained eye into thinking they were sharks.

The day on the water proved enjoyable nonetheless. As we headed back, one view captivated me: a textured, velvety mountain before us, adorned with sculpted ridges and a solitary cabin. Our guide informed us that the local family maintains it as a makeshift shelter for hikers. Reaching this spot requires either a boat or a challenging 20-kilometer hike through untouched wilderness—a trek I’ll definitely add to my must-do list. Perhaps next Verslunarmannahelgi?

The whale-watching experience was arranged through North Sailing. For tour bookings and further information, visit northsailing.is.