Whether you’ve called Iceland home, explored its breathtaking landscapes in the past, or simply searched “Iceland” with dreams of travel in your heart, chances are you’ve encountered the renowned Golden Circle. This picturesque circuit, located just a short drive from Reykjavík, offers travelers a chance to witness three iconic attractions: the magnificent Gullfoss waterfall, the geothermal wonderland of Geysir, and the historic Þingvellir National Park.
It had been quite some time since I last tackled the full Golden Circle, so when my father, his wife, and a couple of friends announced their return to Iceland after years away, I seized the opportunity. I reached out to our friends at Go Car Rental and mapped out a classic DIY day trip to introduce them to this cherished route.
Weather Woes
As our road trip day dawned, the weather forecast wasn’t exactly promising. Dark, brooding clouds loomed ominously over Reykjavík, and a quick check on Vedur.is confirmed we wouldn’t be escaping the gloom any time soon. Yet, with our eight-seater van brimming with snacks and water bottles, and my children eager to skip school for the day, we set off with the hope that Iceland’s beauty would shine through—even under a murky sky. Departing Reykjavík, we journeyed over Hellisheiði and descended into Hveragerði, all the while managing to dodge the rain—so far, so good.
The First Stop
Gliding along Route 35, I offered my passengers an enticing option. “We’re nearing the Kerið volcanic crater,” I announced, perhaps more enthusiastically than warranted. “It’s a lovely walk around the rim—who wants to stop before we head to Geysir?”
A moment of silence settled in, followed by a less-than-enthusiastic, “Nah, I don’t think so.”
Thus, Geysir became our first destination of the day. (For anyone reading this, I advocate for a stop at Kerið—it really is a beautiful spot.)
While excitement for the volcanic crater was tepid, anticipation for the Geysir geothermal area was palpable. The star attraction here is Strokkur, the dependable geyser that erupts, on average, every five minutes. As we walked the cobblestone path to Strokkur, we passed various geothermal oddities—a bubbling puddle known as Litli-Geysir, a series of mud pots bubbling energetically, and an enigmatic steam-spewing concrete structure. Its purpose is a mystery, but it adds a unique charm to the landscape that I couldn’t help but appreciate.
The main event, Strokkur, was waiting for us, while the original Great Geysir has stayed dormant for years. We found our spot along the rope barrier circling the geyser’s azure pool and watched closely, absorbing the anticipation as the water rose, then receded, then surged again, culminating in an impressive column of water shooting skyward. We couldn’t help but erupt in our own chorus of “oohs” and “aahs.”
Back to the van for the next adventure.
The Next Stop
With everyone settled and safely buckled in, we continued our journey along Route 35, heading toward Gullfoss. After witnessing water soaring into the air, it was time to behold the spectacle of water cascading down a cliff.
The experience of Gullfoss transforms as you walk along the canyon’s path, each step bringing new perspectives on the rugged beauty of the falls. Visiting Gullfoss is always special, and it was made even more remarkable on that dank May day, when we practically had the place to ourselves. The rain held off just long enough for us to enjoy the view from the lookout point, adjacent to the restaurant and gift shop. Then, we braved the stairs—our counts varied, prompting friendly debate—but eventually made our way to the base of the falls for a closer look.
The ever-changing view of the magnificent multi-tiered waterfall and its expansive canyon was truly breathtaking. Fortunately, I was pleased to see that everyone respected the safety barriers, allowing me to appreciate the scenery without a hint of frustration.
Last Stop
Until this point, we’d enjoyed a modicum of luck with the weather—dreary, yes, but dry. However, as we entered Þingvellir National Park and slowed down to the posted speed limit of 50 km/h (to the chagrin of the Land Rover behind us), the skies finally opened up.
Crawling through the rugged terrain, past what are likely beautiful lookout points in sunnier weather, we found ourselves engulfed by a sudden downpour. The rain pounded on the van as the windshield wipers worked overtime, my kids in the back row joyfully belting out tunes from Hamilton while an older gentleman dozed quietly in the front seat. Moments like these remind me of the cherished family memories we create.
When we reached the Þingvellir visitor center, I was surprised to see my passengers eager to disembark for a glimpse of Almannagjá, the gorge defining the edge of the North American tectonic plate. Despite being thoroughly soaked, we hurried along the semi-circular boardwalk to take in the stunning views. It turns out that Þingvellir is gorgeous in any weather—cold and wet, it was still worth the stop.
Homeward Bound
Back in the van, as we dialed down the soundtrack of Hamilton at the request of my fellow travelers, we began the journey back to Reykjavík. Remarkably, the rain ceased almost as soon as we passed the national park’s gates—just typical. It would be nice to give the wipers a well-deserved break.
Despite the less-than-ideal weather, spending a leisurely day circling the Golden Circle was a rewarding experience, allowing me to reconnect with this beloved tourist route while crafting new memories with family and friends.
A heartfelt thanks to Go Car Rental for providing us with the wheels for the day. For your own adventure, visit gocarrental.is.
