ÓX: Reykjavík’s Intimate Culinary Gem

From the moment I opened the website, my stomach began to stir—not just from hunger, but from a flutter of anticipation. “Wind up your senses and start your journey,” it proclaimed, though it offered no visual clues about the culinary delights that awaited. Behind the text, a faded medieval map of Iceland came to life with mythical creatures beckoning us to “step… dive… play” and “consume” the treasures of this gastronomic expedition. Dining at ÓX is truly an adventure through an Iceland you’ve never envisioned.

Our party of five embarked on a 12-course meal, trusting the culinary vision of our hosts entirely.

The meal was crafted by Hafsteinn Olafsson, the esteemed 2018 Icelandic Chef of the Year, while sommelier Hrói artfully paired each course with wine. We began with a crisp rosé champagne and a series of delightful small bites—first, a nuanced blend of cheese, onion, and celeriac encased in a glass bowl, topped with a lid that revealed a tantalizing whiff of charred grass upon lifting. Next came a delicate arrangement of tomato, lovage, and salmon, meticulously packed to perfection.

• Discover The Reykjavík Food Walk Tour here.

A spicy scallop returned to its shell, garnished with a wasabi kick, followed by a glass of Piemonte Chardonnay. The menu continued with an Icelandic pancake adorned with lumpfish roe—our local twist on blini—substituting crème fraîche with an indulgent Icelandic skyr soaked in cream. But it was the most memorable course of the evening—a delightful pairing of rutabaga, grapes, and horseradish—that took me by surprise. It resembled a donut slathered in chunky jam, yet its cold, savory flavor was unlike anything I had encountered before.

We were next treated to an unfiltered, naturally sparkling Italian wine, pairing beautifully with a foamy concoction of mushrooms and egg yolk—slow-cooked to perfection at 67°C for three hours. Just when I thought there wouldn’t be room for bread, we were served geothermally baked rye bread, pulled from a milk carton and sliced into half-moons, resting on a bed of seeds beside a sprinkle of salty butter infused with pickled angelica seeds. This was perfectly contrasted by a robust amber beer from Lady Brewery, echoing the satisfying depth of a fine Guinness.

As I neared my limit, they saved the best for last.

A glass of dry German Riesling enhanced the flavors of Icelandic baked cod, elevated by mussel purée, caramelized miso, and onion sauce artfully plated on handcrafted pottery by Icelandic artisan Aldis Bára. The so-called ‘main’ course arrived ninth in line: tender Icelandic lamb accompanied by chanterelles, red beets, and local raspberries, paired with a glass of velvety Terlan Lagrein. Sweetness followed with three desserts—carrots, lactose-free hazelnut ice cream, and a decadent slice of chocolate sandwich, all harmonized with a sparkling orange Greek wine that slipped from our lips in a blur of excitement alongside an infusion of birch-flavored ‘Björk’ liqueur and a brewing process that defied expectations—a mesmerizing dance of hot water flowing upwards into a chemistry-style apparatus.

The presentation of each course was a marvel, blending beauty with artistry, a principle rooted in Japanese and local culture. The plates made from stone, lava, shell, and wood reflected the significance of nature in Scandinavian design while simultaneously emphasizing the fine dining experience of partaking in exquisite dishes served on handmade ceramics. At the end of our culinary journey, we received a beautifully crafted menu alongside a wooden spoon emblazoned with ÓX, branded right before our eyes.

Though they had promised a two-and-a-half-hour experience, three hours later we lingered, still sipping on three barely touched glasses of wine and enjoying bowls of lava rocks filled with sweet bites, all while our appetites barely stirred. Some in our party were keen to suggest an after-party at Kaffibarinn, but I opted to retreat home and succumb to the well-deserved food coma.

In truth, I may be the first regular at ÓX, possibly breaking a client record with my third visit—an accomplishment they claimed no other guest has matched since they opened in March. It’s an enticing reality, as the menu frequently evolves, offering a unique journey with each visit, different companions, and a trio of chefs—Haffi, Georg, and owner Thrainn—whose collaborative artistry demands constant renewal.

Although ÓX seats only 11, don’t let that deter you.

There are often seats available on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights. With only one seating per night, booking a spot online at www.ox.restaurant is a quick endeavor, and you’re likely to find a seat soon. If you’re planning a special gathering of 10 or 11, consider a private dining experience—an excellent option for a bachelor or hen party—by emailing ox@ox.restaurant or calling their sister restaurant Sumac at +354.537.9900 if you find yourself in Iceland.

For glimpses of their culinary artistry, follow ÓX on Instagram: @ox.reykjavik. Photos and text by Katrín Sif @nomadic_cosmopolitan.