Explore Camping and Hiking in Þakgil

From the moment I first heard about Þakgil, it was a destination I yearned to experience. A campsite tucked away in a secluded canyon? Nestled in the highlands yet conveniently close to the Ring Road? And let’s not forget the intriguing dining area set inside a cave!

Years slipped by as I hesitated to visit, convinced that the only way to access this gem would be through a rugged 4×4, requiring challenging river crossings, and that it was only reachable during a fleeting summer window. The latter is indeed true: Þakgil is open from mid-July to the end of September, but the rest of my assumptions need a little more clarification.

Lush Oasis

Þakgil refers not only to the canyon but also to the campsite nestled within it, located about three and a half hours from Reykjavík. To reach this tranquil site, you meander inland after leaving Vík, taking Kerlingardalvegur, or Road 214. Though it isn’t officially marked as an F-road, the bumpy gravel path demands a capable vehicle and a skilled driver. The road, riddled with potholes, is best navigated in dry weather.

The 16-kilometre stretch of gravel commands your attention as the stunning landscape unfolds around you. Just a moment prior, you passed through Vík — once a charming small town, now a bustling tourist hub grappling with an overwhelmed septic system as it struggles to keep pace with the influx of visitors. Almost instantly, you find yourself enveloped by dramatic hills, interlaced with mountain rivers gracefully carving through the valley.

“A campsite in a secluded valley? In the highlands, yet so close to the Ring Road? Wait — did you say they have a dining area inside a cave?”

The campsite’s website explains that the name Þakgil translates to “roofed canyon” (with “þak” meaning “roof” and “gil” meaning “canyon”), boasting that, “as the name suggests, the weather is usually good.” However, when we arrive one July evening, Mother Nature seems to have other plans. A warm rain steadily drifts in and out, yet Þakgil maintains a cozy charm.

Surrounded by towering, moss-covered hills, the campsite offers a protective embrace from the often capricious highland climate. The vibrant greenery feels as if it has been enhanced, a shade rarely witnessed in Iceland. It’s not the stark, uninviting green one might expect; instead, it’s a lush, almost emerald hue — the very essence of the green you envision when dreaming about Ireland.

Thank You, Sir

The campsite boasts both traditional camping facilities — ample space for pitching tents or parking vehicles — as well as a handful of charming wooden cabins tucked beneath the hillside. The rates are quite reasonable at 2,800 ISK per person per night for camping (including one shower), while cabins accommodating four people on double bunk beds run at 28,000 ISK. Each cabin is outfitted with a gas stove, fridge, and toilet, with showers and warm water taps available in a separate, well-maintained facility. A playful sign at the bathroom reads: “Welcome to the Þakgil shitshow. Please remain seated for the entire performance.”

As a camping enthusiast, I’m perfectly content with a simple patch of grass. Within mere minutes, my tent is up, and the grill is crackling to life for my butter-coated corn on the cob. Just as I settle into a camping chair and try to ignore the drizzle, a fellow camper approaches, sporting a distinctly British accent. “Excuse me, would you like to use my awning? I feel sorry for you sitting in the rain.” (If you don’t hear this in Benedict Cumberbatch’s voice, I encourage you to revisit that moment.)

Confused about which rain he was referring to (given Icelandic standards, the weather felt positively decent) and unsure what an awning was, I felt a twinge of guilt for turning down the gesture. Moments later, the gentleman — who had spirited his car to Iceland adorned with a giant “Iceland Trip” sticker — was setting up a fabric canopy, ensuring I could enjoy my corn in relative comfort.

“It’s hard to explain; let’s just say it’s the kind of green you picture when you think of Ireland.”

Unlike many other campsites I’ve encountered, this one radiates a particular warmth and family-friendly atmosphere. I watched children in their waterproofs joyfully playing in a nearby stream, covered head to toe in mud, before moving on to a sandpit filled with Iceland’s characteristic black sand.

The cave dining area warrants special mention. Adorned with several grills and a cozy fireplace, it is an inviting spot, even more so at dusk with candlelit ambiance. As I savor my morning coffee, a raucous band of five-year-old boys engages me in small talk, pondering whether to venture deeper into the cave with lanterns that seem almost comically oversized for them.

It’s Getting Dramatic

Þakgil serves as an excellent base for several hikes in the vicinity, all conveniently marked on a map located beside the campsite’s showers. The red trail leading to a nearby waterfall is an absolute must-see; it’s more of a leisurely walk than a strenuous hike. As I journey deeper into what can only be described as a canyon within a canyon, the lush greenery intensifies, transforming the landscape into a wild paradise. Browsing through photographs later, the scale of it all feels almost surreal, punctuated by vivid bursts of yellow daffodils and the deep purple of arctic thyme against the persistent green.

During our stay, we also tackled the Remundargil trail. Typically a 12-kilometre hike, there’s an option to drive from Þakgil to the Remundargil canyon and then make your way up to the viewpoint overlooking the Kötlujökull glacier — which is precisely what we opted for. As we trekked along, mist settled on the textured mountains, imparting an almost ethereal quality to our surroundings. Upon reaching the summit, the view was nothing short of breathtaking — and somewhat alarming at the same time. You don’t need exact figures on glacier melting to understand the urgency of the situation; in a decade or two, this very vista may very well be devoid of its glacial beauty. It’s a moment to cherish while we still can.

To visit Þakgil, take Route 1 south to Vík, then turn onto Route 214. For more information about the campsite, visit thakgil.is.