Shake Off Your Airwaves Hangover with a Day Trip to Avoid the Crowds
As Iceland Airwaves rolls into town, an unmistakable buzz permeates Reykjavík. Each year, the festival draws music lovers from across the globe, infusing life into the local nightlife and transforming the usual rhythm of 101 into an exciting medley of fresh faces and vibrant energy.
Among the throngs of festival-goers are seasoned veterans, those silver-haired indie aficionados who’ve cultivated a deep affection for Iceland through years of visits. For them, Airwaves is more than just a music festival; it’s a cherished pilgrimage steeped in culture. Yet, alongside these regulars are hundreds of newcomers, wide-eyed and eager to mix their musical experience with a city break, a lively bar crawl, and a taste of the famed Icelandic wilderness.
I remember my own foray into this world back in 2007, accompanied by friends from London. Thanks to local insiders, particularly the members of the drag-punk band Æla, we set off for a daytrip to Snæfellsnes that remains etched in my memory. We wandered the peninsula, taking in the towering Hellnar sea arch and the haunting remains at Djúpalónssandur beach. We stumbled into the enchanting Sönghellir, or “song cave,” and spontaneously harmonized, our voices echoing into the lava-hewn expanse. Time seemed to stand still as we explored charming fishing villages dotting the northern coast, stopping to investigate turf houses, mysterious bones, and waterfalls kissed by ice.
Despite being enveloped in thick clouds that obscured Snæfellsjökull glacier, our adventure unfolded without a single car in sight—back before Iceland’s tourism boom transformed the landscape. It was a day filled with fresh air and adventure, just enough to almost mute our three-day hangover.
Pick Your Poison
Reflecting on that experience, Snæfellsnes was quite the ambitious venture. The round trip could easily stretch to six hours, not accounting for spontaneous hikes, scenic stops, or gas station burgers. But for those Airwaves attendees considering a getaway, plenty of options cater to varying preferences, energy levels, and budgets.
If you’re not inclined to drive or prefer a low-key outing among others, congratulations on avoiding the pitfalls of generalized misanthropy. Good news awaits you: there are numerous coach trips available.
You might have heard of the Golden Circle—a classic journey through a few of the region’s natural marvels, not far from the capital. While it certainly boasts sites like Þingvellir, Gullfoss, and Geysir, recent developments have led to increased infrastructure, diminishing some of its charm. Expect to navigate busy car parks, gift shops, and crowds vying for the best viewing spots. So while the sights are undeniably impressive, the experience might not align with what you’re searching for.
Go West, in the Open Air
For those keen to drive, hitting the open road is an excellent alternative. The freedom of having your friends in the car, controlling the playlist, and deciding when to pull over makes for an adventurous escape. If you’re not one for crowds and prefer to chart your own course, this is undeniably the way to go.
A popular road trip option is the Reykjanes peninsula, although recent eruptions have resulted in several road closures. Instead, consider heading to Borgarfjörður, a picturesque fjord and valley just an hour’s drive from Reykjavík.
To reach this gem, take Route One north, pass through the Hvalfjörður tunnel, and veer right onto Route 50 before the Borgarnes bridge. The roads are limited, but keep your eyes peeled for hidden treasures. You’ll encounter Deildartunguhver, a geothermal spring, the historic hamlet of Reykholt, and the stunning Hraunfossar waterfall, where a sapphire-blue cascade pours from a massive lava field.
As you navigate the winding road, relish clear views of Langjökull glacier. If you’re feeling adventurous, the Viðgelmir tunnel offers guided underground tours for a brush with the subterranean world.
On your return, a soak at the Krauma spa is a worthy indulgence, as you relax in steaming geothermal waters. For a sweet finish to the day, stop by Kaffi Kyrrð in Borgarnes, a charming café filled with an eclectic array of decor, perfect for exploring your fate after a long day.
The Steamy Valley
If the weather out west takes a turn for the worse, venturing inland from Reykjavík might be your best bet. Traveling south along Route One will whisk you past Rauðholar—a stunning series of ochre volcanic craters just outside the city. A mere forty-minute drive over the Hellisheiði mountain pass brings you to Hveragerði, a quaint garden town.
This area offers the Reykjadalur trail—a gentle one to two-hour hike that leads to a serene geothermal valley where you can indulge in a warm river. Keep in mind, though, that it’s a natural setting with minimal facilities, so be prepared with cold drinks and snacks. Don’t forget, a dip will require some outdoor exposure.
After your hike, refuel at the Ölverk brewery and pizzeria, a local favorite. And if rain decides to spoil your plans, Hveragerði’s swimming pool is delightfully reminiscent of a Wes Anderson film set. For those with a hankering for majestic landscapes, continue south along Route One where dramatic scenery—complete with glaciers and black sand beaches—awaits your discovery.
These are merely a couple of relaxed options for Airwaves day trips. Countless more await, so if these suggestions don’t resonate, explore grapevine.is/travel for an extensive archive of adventures across Iceland—surely, something will catch your eye.
Wishing you a memorable time out there. Drive carefully, and please don’t become one of those “Tourist Falls Down Hole” stories we dread reporting on. Happy Airwaves!
