Christmas in Iceland isn’t the work of one jolly figure in red. The whole season runs on a cast of characters — some generous, some mischievous, and at least one genuinely terrifying — each bringing something distinctly Icelandic to the darkest weeks of the year.
The most famous of these are the Yule Lads, 13 brothers who leave their mountain home one by one in the days before Christmas. They arrive in a fixed order: Stekkjastaur (Sheep-Cote-Clod), Giljagaur (Gully-Gawk), Stúfur (Stubby), Þvörusleikir (Spoon-Licker), Pottaskefill (Pot-Scraper), Askasleikir (Bowl-Licker), Hurðaskellir (Door-Slammer), Skyrgámur (Skyr-Gobbler), Bjúgnakrækir (Sausage-Swiper), Gluggagægir (Window-Peeper), Gáttaþefur (Doorway-Sniffer), Ketkrókur (Meat-Hook), and finally Kertasníkir (Candle-Stealer).
Every brother lives up to his name. Stekkjastaur has an unfortunate habit of pestering sheep. Hurðaskellir likes nothing better than slamming doors in the middle of the night. Kertasníkir is after your candles — which, if they were the old tallow variety, perhaps isn’t so hard to understand. But they aren’t all trouble. Starting on December 12, Icelandic children leave a shoe on the windowsill each evening. If the visiting Lad approves of their behaviour, a small gift appears by morning. If not, they find a raw potato instead.
It’s worth asking what sort of household raises 13 brothers like this. The answer is Grýla — their mother, a giantess who lives in a mountain cave and, according to old stories, has a particular appetite for naughty children. The tale has kept Icelandic youngsters on their best behaviour through long winter nights for centuries.
Then there is the Christmas Cat. Possibly the most unsettling figure in the whole festive lineup, this enormous cat is said to prowl the snow-covered countryside during the holiday season, hunting for anyone who hasn’t received new clothes as a gift. The tradition has its roots in the autumn wool harvest — a nudge to finish the work before winter — but these days the story tends to get a wry smile. Even so, the idea of a giant cat stalking the snowy hills has a way of sticking in the mind.
Taken together, the Yule Lads, Grýla, and the Christmas Cat give the Icelandic festive season a flavour all its own — folklore and fun, with just enough edge to keep things interesting.
