A Town of Character, Coffee, and Culture Just Across the Tunnel from Ísafjörður
In Iceland, it’s not unusual to come across a town boasting a modest population of around 200. Yet, Flateyri stands out, frequently boasting such a number in conversations among its residents. This quaint community—whether through its resident authors (more on them on page 18), the Flateyri Folk School, or the vibrant bird murals that adorn its streets—offers an irresistible allure. As I journeyed northwest to attend the Flateyri Literature Festival, I realized there was far more to say than could fit in a single article, prompting this guide to the wonders of Flateyri.
Recently thawed by the consistently mild temperatures of the capital, I was reminded that “spring” had not yet fully graced the Westfjords. Despite my eagerness to embrace the season, the late March chill was an unwelcome reminder that winter still held sway. My hands quickly regained their familiar chapped texture, requiring a swift return to winter driving tactics.
Leaving Reykjavík before 11:00, we arrived in Flateyri by 17:00, even with several quick pit stops along the way. These breaks provide a vital point of interest, as the Westfjords are notoriously sparse when it comes to restroom facilities. With a deep respect for Iceland’s pristine nature, I would never dream of compromising it. Thankfully, we found relief at two notable stops: Hotel Flókalundur and the welcoming people of Djúpidalur. Our sincerest thanks go to them.
Two Coffee Shops, Both Alike in Dignity
For a town of its size, Flateyri boasts a surprising array of dining options for both hungry visitors and locals. Gunnukaffi, a multifaceted establishment serving as a coffeehouse, bar, restaurant, and even a “Dolls Of The World” museum, offers delicious burgers that we savored on two occasions during our stay. Yes, you read that right—a fascinating collection of dolls from around the globe resides in the back of this charming spot, adding a unique twist to the experience.
Meanwhile, Bryggjukaffi serves up freshly brewed filter coffee in an assortment of mismatched mugs along with delectable bagels. The café also features a local beer on tap, which I regrettably passed on trying. In the back, shelves laden with local goods—knitwear, ceramics, and secondhand clothing—invite visitors to indulge their shopping instincts. The festival organizer enthusiastically encouraged us to “kaupa, kaupa, kaupa!”—and in a place like this, it’s an easy suggestion to heed.
If you’re in search of nightlife, Vagninn has you covered. This sizable dive bar is a true gem in Flateyri, hosting events, food pop-ups, and concerts—performers like Bríet and Inspector Spacetime are set to light up the stage over Aldrei weekend. Decorated with photos of patrons both past and present, the bar’s ceiling is even adorned with discontinued krónur notes. For those who smoke, the outdoor area rivals the size of the bar itself.
After a couple of drinks at Vagninn, retreating to your accommodations is a must. We were lucky enough to find ourselves just a minute away from our cozy lodgings above Flateyri’s beloved The Old Bookstore. Bright yellow walls in the kitchen, a cabinet of games, a deep bathtub, and a properly tuned guitar awaited us in this idyllic space. With only two single rooms and one double room available, sharing a kitchen created a truly welcoming atmosphere. We were genuinely saddened to leave on our final day.
The People of Flateyri
No visit to an Icelandic town would be complete without a trip to the local pool, and Flateyri offers both indoor and outdoor hot tubs, an indoor lap pool, and a sauna. Decorated with plants, the pool deck always has hot coffee brewing. While soaking in the hot tub, we struck up a conversation with a local man who had moved from Keflavík with his girlfriend to work at a nearby factory, where they transform sheep horns into dog bones. Everyone in this community has a story.
As we basked in the festival atmosphere, it felt as though we had met nearly everyone in town by the end of our visit. We helped a resident corral his wandering dog, bought a pair of gloves from an honor-system box outside someone’s home, attended an art exhibition at a former fire station, and laughed along with Sindri “Sparkle” Freyr at a literary open mic night at Vagninn.
Our time spent beneath the watchful gaze of Mount Þorfinnur left us longing for more. Despite being a town that one could traverse in mere minutes, Flateyri harbors countless hidden treasures waiting to be discovered at every turn.
If you’re still on the fence about visiting, consider this: acclaimed Icelandic artist Shoplifter has hidden a giant installation somewhere in Flateyri. Can you track it down?
Special thanks to GO Car Rental for providing our wheels.
